I think that I am in love.

hey everyone!
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I am so excited to show you my work from the last couple days.



I took that clamping caul from when I glued in my bridge plate a few weeks ago and I made a new caul that I will use to glue on the bridge after my guitar is finished. I added some more plywood, cork and plexi so it will fit over the braces.




Next step was a very long and complicated one... unfortunately for you it was kind of boring to watch. This step is call voicing the top. The braces on the back of my top are meant for not only strength and stability but for spreading vibrations as well. So voicing involves a process of checking for stiffness (as shown by my teacher David Vincent... I know what you are thinking but he isnt who I am in love with)


tapping the board and listening for the value of the tone

and then shaping and resizing the braces to get the best possible sound. Its hard to explain but here is a before and after



Next I started notching the sides so that the x braces and the upp transverse braces can go all the way through the sides. I set the ribs on the top and marked there width and depth


I notched the sides so that the top would fit on flush.



Next I marked where the top would be cut to.

Then I sanded it down to about 1/8" oversides so that the over hang would not crack the top when I clamped it up with bungee cord...you'll see.



I slid the top out of the mold at and even amount.. Since the back changes in depth I had to support it through the clamping.


So I made some blocks to fill the gap



Next I put sheet rock screws in the holes that I drilled during that first week.

Next I glued the top to the side kerfing and clamped the neck and tail block areas. Then I wrapped a 40' bungee cord around the body using the sheet rock screws to even the out the pressure. Here is my good friend D. Scott Nettleton doing the same to his guitar


and then enjoying a tasty ale 8one... the official drink of kentucky where he's from... he's not who I am in love with either.


After it is clamped for 2 hours I took off the bungee and I have a guitar with a top. Wow this is beginning to look like a guitar.



I still have some of the top hanging over.

David shows us how to trim it flush with the router.


nice.


Next David used this jig to route dovetail fittings into our neck blocks.



later I will fit my neck to sit in the slot.


Next I voiced my back much like the top. But instead of notching the sides by hand I used a jug that was set up with the other jigs I have used to route the perfect size notches.



Now the back fits just like the top.



and is glued up in the same fashion. Oh D. Scott! Watch out ladies, he is married.


While this glued up I didnt have mush else to do so I squared up the neck black for my guitar. This block makes 2 necks... one for me and one for leon. We traced out our templates.


and cut a ruff shape.

So I bet you guys are wondering who I am in love with....

Nope not him. He's just my bench mate, Dale.
I unclamped the back of the guitar and took it out and I am so excited!!



it looks like a guitar and I love it ( the guitar not the Canadian holding it... although he is nice... eh)

Side Braces, Back Braces and Kerfing OH MY!!!!

Hey everyone.

The rest last week went really well. I am currently well ahead of schedule (knock on wood) with my guitar... my blog on the other hand is a little behind....as always
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So after I shaped my sides I had some extra side wood left over. So I marked the centerline and sawed off the excess so that the 2 sides fit perfectly in the mold.


Then I made a tail block and a neck block for the guitar. These are made out of mahogany and they are cut 1/8" tall to over compensate. The thick block is for the neck. Later I will route a dovetail fitting into it so that I can set the neck.


Before gluing them in I need to make them sit flush against the sides. So I took out the sides and placed some adhesive sand paper on the area where the block will sit. Then I sanded the back side of the block to fit.




When the blocks fit well. I shimmed up the mold 1/16" to spread the 1/8" extra on the top and back of the guitar. Then I used a number of clamps and titebond 2 glue. I use titebond 2 because it is water prrof and if I ever need to reset the neck I can steam it off without ungluing the neck block.




After that is dry I sanded the sides and prepared them for gluing side braces.

Side braces are thin peices of wood that run from the top to back of the guitar evenly. They help stop cracks on the sides. I used a tape measure to spread them out easily placing 4 on each side.



I used titebond glue. I clamped each brace with 1 spring clamp to clamp to the rib, and 1 cam clamp to clamp to the mold. I also used a thicker peice of wood for a caul.

Afterwards I cleaned up the glue squeeze out and sanded it smooth.


Next I prepped my back for braces. I cut out the back and drew in the brace pattern with a template



Then I used more strips from my top make a back graft with the grain running perpendicular to the grain of the back.


I used the Go Bar deck with a 20' radius to glue the graft in. First I used a straight edge to line the graft up and removed it once the go bar sticks were in. I also used a go bar stick as a caul.


Next I used a sanding stick with a radius in it to round out the graft so it looks really perty.


Next placed the aforementioned template on the back and clamped it down



Then I used the flat edge of my chisel to cut down into the graft.



next I used a skinnier chisel, bevel side down, to remove the slots for the braces.

I radiused some brace material and used a jig to taper the ends. We used a jig because we have another jig from slotting into the sides later.



then I made up some more radiused cauls


Next I placed the back on the deck with the template clamped over it.


Then I glue the braces in with the template on so the are perfect. I used titebond.


Then after 15 minutes or so I came back, removed the template, cleaned up the glue squeeze out and reclamped for an hour.


Next I began to glue in the kerfing. The kerfing is used to glue the top and back to the sides.... because I have the side braces in... I have to notch out the kerfing so the braces fit anf the kerfing sits flush. I do this by using a thin strip of adhesive sandpaper on a piece of plexiglass. This helps me to notch it the perfect depth.





I clamp up the kerfing with about 100 clothes pins and rubberbands... real hi tech.


I used titebond glue and leave the kerfing 1/32" - 1/16" over the rib.


and there it is!

Next I put a radius into the edge of the sides and kerfing. I marked the edge with a china marker.

For the top, I put sandpaper on a radius bar, balancing one end on a block and sanding down the other edge til the mark dissapears. I use a 20' radius for all the top except the neck block near the upper transverse brace where I use a 25'.


Then I turn the radius bar and sand the center.



for the back which has the same radius of 20' I use an abrased radius dish. I place the sides in and turn it back and forth until the marks dissappear.

Now its all ready for the top to be fitted and glued in!